Planning Your Safari to Rwanda & Tanzania

Last month, we took a trip that reshaped our definition of adventure, traveling across Rwanda and Tanzania for a private tour that included gorilla trekking, safari, cultural experiences, and lots of wildlife photography. Savvy travelers and comfortable in remote destinations, we were less experienced with navigating developing countries and the fish-out-of-water feeling that comes with that. Though you don't want to completely over-plan a trip to the point that there's no spontaneity, here's how we went about it — including a sample itinerary that worked perfectly for us.

From Down Under to Dian Fossey

I started planning this adventure in my head on the plane home from our last big trip across Australia, when we traveled by camper to three territories from Far North Tropical Queensland, into the insanely wild Kakadu region in the Northern Territory, and finally down to the heart of the Red Center at Uluru in the Outback. I had seen gorilla trekking on YouTube as one of those impossible bucket list items like crossing the Drake Passage, and watched the heartbreaking Virunga documentary the year before. As a lifelong fan of Dian Fossey (complicated though she was), this seemed like the ultimate must-do for adventure lovers and wildlife photographers, and the next logical step after Oz.

Initially, we looked into Uganda, where gorilla trekking permits are half the cost of Rwanda, but recent safety concerns and government policies gave us pause. However, Rwanda seemed fascinating and the perfect "training wheels" entry point for our first foray into Africa. It’s modern, safe, and relatively well-off. And then there was Tanzania — which my husband and I had romanticized since childhood. Louis and Mary Leakey, Robert Sapolsky, Jane Goodall... we wanted to walk in the footprints of these scientific giants — and among the actual giants of the Serengeti itself. Well, maybe not so much “walk” as watch from a distance in the safety of a Land Cruiser. Seeing Ngorongoro Crater, Olduvai Gorge, and at least touching the mythical Kilimanjaro seemed an impossible dream in these initial conversations.

So once these were decided, a little more than six months out, the work began. It was daunting for sure — there are more tour companies to choose from than actual gorillas in Africa, it seems. And giving up control to a tour company can be almost as stressful as executing the planning process yourself. Most people visit the Serengeti and Maasai Mara in late June and early July, so that's what we chose. If you are considering doing something similar, here's our step-by-step guide to getting started. Note that some of these requirements may vary for other nationalities — we are based in the USA so double check requirements for your country. 

Picking the Right Tour Company

It's essential to shop around and connect with at least 4-5 tour operators before deciding on your all-inclusive trip. While we were mostly satisfied with our final choice of operator, a lack of clear and prompt communication throughout was a drawback. Another company might have offered a smoother pre-trip experience. A couple items were missed but quickly rectified. Most companies are rated using TripAdvisor and Safari Bookings.com. I wouldn't choose anything with less than a 4.5-star rating on Trip Advisor, and believe me — I read every. single. review. 

Tip: if you are planning a trip across borders, most operators outsource to local companies and you may find yourself with multiple guides and drivers — this is a normal practice.

Selecting Your "Must-Haves"

Before you can get an estimate, you need to know what you want to see. Start by listing your non-negotiable experiences and preferences. Whether it's gorilla trekking, witnessing the Great Migration, or ensuring luxury accommodations, knowing what you want is crucial for tailoring your trip. Communicate these must-haves to your chosen tour operator so they can craft an estimate and itinerary that aligns with your expectations. Most operators use a similar software platform that will create a custom itinerary for you within a day. You can then review and make tweaks — keep in mind that operators have relationships with some vendors, and may or may not be able to accommodate all of your requests. Note that even if you do your homework, there may be some hiccups along the way or some changes — some things are just done differently there. If you want a US-based tour company who will accommodate your private safari with American communication and planning styles, you are going to pay through the nose for it. Start getting ready to adopt the mindset: "It's Africa!" — a common refrain among travelers, usually said with a smile and a shrug.

Navigating International Flights and Airport Chaos

When planning our epic adventure to Africa, securing international flights was a key milestone that had its share of anxiety and relief. We chose to do this the same week we paid our first deposit with our tour company to ensure that the flights would line up with the itinerary. Once we secured flights, we sent these to our operator and authorized the credit card deposit. We managed to snag excellent Delta flights that connected only once in Amsterdam, offering us more than three hours of layover—a critical buffer time we soon realized was gold. 

A scheduling adjustment by Delta in the spring trimmed that sweet, sweet connecting time in Amsterdam by half. Transfers from Non-Schengen to Non-Schengen zones can be done in an hour at Schiphol in theory, but no one wants to test that, especially when there's no backup flight the next day. Even though we arrived as scheduled, it took a bus ride and a speedy hike to get to our gate... right in time for boarding.

In summary, flights to Africa, particularly to destinations like Rwanda and Tanzania, can be somewhat scarce, and a daily flight is not guaranteed. Grant yourself ample buffer time between connections and a necessary cushion for the unforeseen. 

Tip: We did not check bags on the way there, and would not recommend it unless you want to risk them not showing up. Packing for Africa is another post entirely, and there are many resources for this online. We carried a camera gear bag and a large duffel bag each, plus crossbody personal bags for passports and miscellaneous items. We confirmed carryon measurements for a specific flight, only to have the plane change completely. Cut to us shoving a carryon into an overhead space the size of a breadbox on a hot-ass propeller plane in Nairobi. Pack as light as possible. We did check our large carryons through on the way home and it was heavenly. 

Brace Youself: It's Kigali International Airport

The real trial, however, awaited us at Kigali Airport. This wasn’t just the usual travel hiccup—it was, without exaggeration, the most taxing airport experience I've ever encountered... and I've flown JetStar (if you know, you know).

For those planning a similar journey, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of allotting extra time, especially at Kigali Airport. If feasible, plan for a longer layover or arrive well ahead of your departure. This buffer can be a lifesaver in dealing with last-minute flight changes and the general unpredictability that seems to plague this particular airport. It is not beyond possibility that your flight will be moved ahead a few hours or even canceled completely. Dealing with the staff was beyond infuriating — the phrase "Ma'am, this is a Wendy's came to mind" as it seemed no one had ever worked a day in an airport before. We were initially told the flight was overbooked and there was no room for us, but after hours of negotiating and pressing, we were upgraded to Business Class. Soon we were nibbling savory samosas paired with Kenyan coffee, feet up in the recliners as we crossed Lake Victoria, while in the distance alpenglow washed over Kilimanjaro. "It's Africa!" 

Paying the Deposit — Eek!

Once you're comfortable with the provided itinerary and estimate and have your flights booked, it's time to secure your spot with a deposit. Be aware that while some tour companies manage international flights, others might require you to arrange them separately. We chose our company based on several factors: strong reviews, a valid license with the tourism boards, competitive pricing, and no credit card processing fees. Additionally, their willingness to book international flights on our behalf was a significant advantage. We ensured from reviews and personal outreach to other travelers that that they had successfully managed trips in Rwanda and Tanzania, as they were Uganda-based. We paid 30% to reserve the trip, plus the full cost of the gorilla permits and hot air balloons.

Tip: A crucial piece of advice — always opt to pay with a credit card that offers robust fraud protection, rather than a direct bank transfer. This can provide a safety net in the rare event of discrepancies or fraud.

Securing Visas

For both Rwanda and Tanzania, visas were needed. The online process for Rwanda was smooth. Tanzania's online process was much clunkier and it took many different browsers, cards, and devices before we were finally able to get the application processed. Luckily, visas can be obtained upon arrival in both countries, so this was always our backup plan. Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your intended stay to avoid any travel hiccups. Overall, we spent about $150 each on Visas. 

Super-pro tip: Have a pen handy at the airport for filling out forms upon arrival in Tanzania.

Travel Insurance

Never overlook the importance of travel insurance. Beyond our Nationwide policy, we supplemented our coverage with an inexpensive AMREF flying doctors policy, ensuring we had the necessary support for safari evacuation in Tanzania, if needed. This extra layer of security can make all the difference in enjoying peace of mind during your travels.

Health Preparations: Vaccines and Medications

Before departure, we consulted with a travel health clinic to ensure we were up to date on key vaccines, including typhoid and hepatitis. Yellow Fever is not required for Rwanda and Tanzania for Americans connecting in non-Yellow Fever endemic countries, but we did secure an exemption letter and made sure we were on top of the latest CDC guidance in case we needed to dispute anything at the airport*. 

In addition to vaccines, we were prescribed a comprehensive list of medications to cover various contingencies:

• Malaria Prophylaxis: Malaria exists in both Rwanda and Tanzania, and taking antimalarial medication was non-negotiable. Starting the course before travel, continuing during the trip, and completing it after returning home is essential for effective protection. We used 100% deet, long sleeves, closed-toed shoes, and mosquito nets at night as well. Plenty of people seemed to be dressed for the beach, so it's all about your personal risk tolerance.

• Antibiotics: A just-in-case measure for any bacterial infections that might arise, particularly from food or water sources. I only drank bottled water and bottles had to have been factory sealed. My husband was a little more relaxed with this, enjoying fresh juices at the lodges, and he was fine. 

• Anti-Diarrheal Medications and Electrolytes: To manage and quickly recover from common travel-related stomach issues, ensuring we could continue our adventure without significant interruptions. Prone to traveler's stomach issues, I took a Pepto every morning and avoided salads, dairy, and fruit and I was completely fine.
  

* Reader, we needed to. We were asked by an official at the airport in Tanzania about Yellow Fever cards, but when I told her it wasn't needed for us since our connection in Kenya had been only two hours, she simply waved us past without a word.

Final Thoughts

Ultimately, all the research paid off, and the trip went off without a hitch other than five hours of chaos at Kigali airport. There is really nothing we would have done differently. Remaining flexible is key when traveling in Africa, even with a tour company. Expect to encounter some of the nicest people on the planet and the highs and lows of traveling in an underdeveloped region. Africa is not cheap to travel to the way we did it, and if we return we will probably loosen the reigns a little and do more self-exploration and driving, although I vow here and now to never drive in Kigali. 

We never felt unsafe and embraced our curious status as mzungus. Do be prepared for the tipping situation, which is very, very prevalent. Seriously, at our accommodations in Musanze, staff knocked on our door once an hour to provide some little service that necessitated peeling off a couple of bills. Tanzania was even more egregious, with staff in public restrooms expecting handouts — be okay with saying no. Remember, you can't get if you don't ask and these people are simply hustling to make a buck. There's no reason to let it put you off. Sometimes, there will be a performance for tips — you can either choose to be uncomfortable with it or embrace the fact that someone is singing for you, probably beautifully, and it's hell of a lot better than a bored barista shoving a credit card reader in your face after handing you a drip coffee and saying "It's just gonna ask you a question."

Your guide is going to depend on the luck of the draw, and we had some who were just okay and one who was simply outstanding. Luckily, the outstanding one was our guide when we most needed it most — during the safari leg of the trip. He was knowledgable, talkative but knew when to be quiet, went out of his way to get us good shots, and kept us generally away from the crowds, like when he got us right in the middle of the migration with no other vehicles around. He curated warm picnic lunches for us complete with wine and coffee, and stopped the Land Cruiser every single time one of us said something dorky like "Ooh, a hornbill." He was also a fast and skilled driver, safety-minded, and ethical when it came to animals and crowds, which was important to us. He even taught us a few Swahili words beyond the typical tourist phrases. Shedrack, if you're out there — thank you.

Rwanda is without a doubt one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, and Ngorogoro Crater could be a weeklong destination itself. Better writers than I have expounded on the wonders of the Serengeti, and I can only say that it is as advertised. Get yourself to Africa.

 

Sample Itinerary for An 11-Day Safari

• Day 1 Arrival in Kigali in the evening. Head to accommodations in Kigali, unwinding with dinner and rest. We recommend Heaven Boutique Hotel.
• Day 2 Start with a morning visit to the Genocide Museum where you'll want to spend an hour or two, then take a scenic 2.5-hour drive to Musanze. There is time for a mid-day activity here if you wish before checking in at accommodations in Musanze. We recommend the Mountain Gorilla View Lodge.
• Day 3 Wake up early for your once-in-a-lifetime Mountain Gorilla Trek in Volcanoes National Park, followed by another night at accommodations in Musanze. Afterwards, you can explore the Dian Fossey Museum, which is spectacular, or head to Gorilla Guardians (which we skipped). Even the "moderate" trek is no joke so you'll be fairly tired and muddy afterward.
• Day 4 Drive back to Kigali and catch a mid-day flight, plus or minus a transfer in Nairobi (try to fly direct if you can). Arrive in Arusha, Tanzania late at night and drive 45 minutes to accommodations in Arusha. We recommend Mvuli, although we feel that there are more convenient and luxurious locations.
• Day 5 Depart at daybreak for the long drive to the excellent Tarangire National Park (which we feel is not to be missed and a perfect mini-safari before the main attractions) followed by a scenic drive to the Lake Manyara area, to accommodations in Karatu. We highly recommend Eileen's Trees Inn.
• Day 6 Cross through the Ngorongoro Conservation area and stop at Olduvai Gorge, "the cradle of mankind" for a tour and exploration, and then make your way to the Central Serengeti for a game drive through the Southern part of the park, with accommodations in the Central Serengeti. We highly recommend a tented camp for a true bush experience — Osero Serengeti was outstanding.
• Day 7 Wake at dawn for your first full-day game drive in Central Serengeti, returning to accommodations in Central Serengeti for the night. You will be exhausted — no one tells you this, but safari will beat you up, especially if you stand up most of the time.
• Day 8 Pre-book a morning balloon safari, and after lunch head out for another game drive in Central or Northern Serengeti, with another night at accommodations in Central Serengeti. Note: Common in summer, wildfires in the park may subdue animal sights, but the overall experience is still worth it.
• Day 9 Leave the Serengeti and descend into the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater for a game drive to see close-up lion action (like maybe too close-up), endangered black rhinos if you're lucky, thousands of flamingos, and more. Spend the day, then climb back out of the crater and head to Lake Manyara, for accommodations in Lake Manyara or Karatu. Heart and Soul Lodge was possibly the most beautiful lodge of the trip.
• Day 10 If you're into hiking but don't have an extra 5-7 days to summit, make the very long drive to Shira Plateau for a high-elevation day hike on Kilimanjaro, then return to Moshi for the night. We stayed at a humble lodge in Moshi Village anticipating epic mountain views, and though the staff was unbelievably kind, there were no views due to clouds and we do not recommend that hotel — it was the only accommodation not up to par for our trip. Great if you're on a tight budget, though.
• Day 11 For your last morning, we highly recommend a visit to the Materuni Village for a Coffee Tour and Waterfalls Hike, capped by an evening transfer to Kilimanjaro Airport for a late departure. This was the only true cultural experience we did, and although we worried it would be touristy, it was truly one of our favorite travel experiences.