Old Snowy Backpack

I had been thinking about this trip for weeks, but didn't think I'd actually do it due to time constraints. Usually an overnighter for me takes lots of planning and ramping up. But I already knew the Snowgrass Flats area so well that I could've even hiked in in the dark if need be. But no need, I got to camp near the PCT junction just before dark, passing hordes of Saturday hikers on their way out. One well-meaning but baffling older lady took it upon herself to caution me "You're starting out kind of late." I let it go... I'm so much nicer on the trail.

The night was long and I slept fitfully, but was not overly nervous about bumps in the night. I read Cheryl Strayed's (mostly terrible) PCT book, then packed my down jacket around my head and drifted off. My philosophy now seems to be: "If it's not ripping through my tent, I don't want to know about it."

I got up at dawn and headed up the PCT, gaining increasingly great, albeit smoky, views of Rainier and Goat Lake. I climbed slowly up the Old Snowy moraine in the shadows, and crossed some flat snowfields before catching sight of both the famous Knife's Edge snaking off towards Elk Pass and a herd of resident mountain goats. Both were a fantastic reward.

Just below the final push to the summit I began to get a touch of vertigo, so I sat and had a snack. When will I learn that most nutrition bars are inedible over 8,000ft? I climbed the last little stretch until cliffing out at a mini-cairn and view of the other side of the ridge. I got freaked out and gingerly turned around - must've zigged left when I should've zigged right, but at the point I was close enough that I felt satisfied. Plus, scrambling down in scree and loose boulders with big dropoffs is not my favorite thing ever.

Chatted with a bunch of nice people on the way down and broke camp. I could've probably gone faster, but the air was thin and smoky and I was underslept. The five miles back to the car from camp are a major pain in the ass, and yes, that was me listening to T-Rex without headphones as you passed. You'll live.